Cityorkers
Nicole Bacharan / Historian and political scientist, specialist in Transatlantic relations.
Her job is to explain American society to the French. Whether on television or in her books, Nicole Bacharan works to promote dialogue between Paris and New York.
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What makes you a real Paryorker? I share my life between the two cities. Although I live in Paris, my work analyzing American society means I constantly have to keep an eye on New York and visit as often as possible. Thanks to my job, I live and think like a Paryorker!
How did you become one? I have had a foot in New York from when I was a teenager. At that time, some of my family lived there. After my history studies, I became a political scientist and my work involved explaining French society to the Americans. Since I moved to Paris about 10 years ago, it is the other way round – I try to enlighten my compatriots about the United States. Although I have greatly increased contacts, I have the same desire to make a small contribution to dialogue between the two countries, and therefore between the two cities.
Which other Paryorkers do you know? I live with a Paryorker! My partner, Dominique Simonnet, also makes the long journey between Paris and New York as part of his work as a writer and editor. I also know Elie Wiesel, who writes books in French, although he is from New York. Without forgetting Yasmina Reza, whose plays are performed and acclaimed in both cities.
How are the two cities important in the balance of your work and/or personal life? Since transatlantic relations are my core business, I have to visit New York frequently to carry out research and meet my contacts. But I need to go there especially for my personal stability. If I don’t go back quickly, I miss the city terribly. I live in Paris, but I feel really at home in New York.
What differences are there between the Parisian and the New Yorker in you? I am more active in New York. I get up early, even at the weekend (which I find impossible in Paris), I walk a lot… I really feel that the city gives off an energy, and all I need to do is breathe it to get some. I am calmer in Paris. After so long in the United States, my behavior was very American, I was more exuberant, ultra-positive, very “in your face”, as they say in New York… But I realized that the social codes were not quite the same, and that Parisians are much more distant and restrained. So I adapted!
What metaphor can you think of for the two cities? The fact that I study relations between France and the United States made me realize that, contrary to perceived understandings, Paris and New York are very similar cities. And above all cities that are friends and have always tried to help one another. Take their cultural history. During the Second World War, many French artists fled to New York. The same can be said of many New York artists and designers, who moved to Paris in the 1950s during McCarthyism, and even recently during the era of George W. Bush. One image comes to mind, that of a ballet, since dance is my biggest passion. New York would be "West Side Story", with very urban choreography and dancers of all nationalities. Paris, would revolve at the pace of "Swan Lake", a very beautiful ballet with a very refined style. Two classics, but not from the same period.
What is your best memory of Paris? A candle-lit dinner with the love of my life at the time, who is still my partner! For our first date, Dominique took me to the "Petite Cour", an excellent restaurant in the heart of Saint-Germain. I remember the red velvet drapes hanging round the room, the kindness of the waiters and the owner, and above all my confusion at the names of the dishes… I had just come back from the United States and I had not had time to revise gastronomic classics.
What is the first thing you do when you arrive in Paris? I sleep! As much as possible! Despite being used to it, the time change is always just as bad for me, especially when I’m returning to Paris.
And the last before you leave? I take a walk along the banks of the Seine. After a long walk, I stand on the Pont des Arts and stay for a long time watching all the shades of gray which color Paris. Far from being boring or dull, I find all the nuances really magnificent. This monochrome of light gray, gray-green and dark gray of the water, the sky, the buildings and the sidewalks… It is this landscape which I think of when I am far away and missing Paris.
What is your favorite time of day in Paris? When the city switches into night. Some people come home from work to their families, others are already dressed to go out. I really like this slide from professional and public life into private life. It is the moment when Paris begins to relax.
Do you have a ritual intimately associated with the city? A walk. Always the same one. I set off from the Palais Royal, cross the Cour Carrée of the Louvre, without forgetting to admire the Pyramid. I then take the Pont des Arts (always that footbridge!), cross the Seine and walk to Saint-Germain. For me that walk is truly Paris.
What about Paris do you love/get excited about? Parisians! I find them incredibly chic! I am unbeatable for recognizing them in airports. They are always well dressed, but without making too much of it. Fashionable but not too trendy, well made up but not vulgar… Always with a little touch of offhandedness to top it all off.
And what annoys you about it? The fact that bicycles have to use the middle of bus lanes makes me really mad! I love cycling, but in Paris it's really too dangerous.
What is your best New York memory? When I was location spotting with Dominique, my partner, for my novel "Némo en Amérique” (Editor’s note: published by Seuil). In this book, we wanted our young hero to discover New York, so we explored the whole city looking for places teenagers would like, places they could hide from passersby, such as the footbridges overlooking FDR Drive freeway… This enabled me to rediscover the New York of my youth, to look again at the city through the eyes of a child.
What is the first thing you do when you get to New York? When I go to New York, I rent a small apartment, so that I can make my own coffee. As soon as I get to the Big Apple, I rush to buy vanilla coffee on 2nd avenue from Todaro Brothers. A real treat.
And the last before you leave? I go back to Todaro Brothers for a few sachets of vanilla coffee, which I then keep in my freezer in Paris. When I get back, my suitcase always smells of vanilla!
What is your favorite time of day in New York? Early morning. Unlike in Paris, I arrive and get up at dawn in New York, even at the weekend. So I take a trip round Central Park to watch the joggers, roller-skaters and all the other morning exercisers.
Do you have a ritual intimately associated with the city? The trip round Central Park by bike. Taking the cycle path round the park is an excellent way of staying up to date with the latest fitness trends! A few years back, all New Yorkers roller-skated there. Then, the big thing was running with weights strapped to your ankles. Now cycling has taken the lead!
What about New York do you love/get excited about? The "global village" aspect of the city. Its inhabitants who come from all around the world, and all feel profoundly New York. That always touches and moves me. I am convinced that New York's cosmopolitan character will become stronger with the election of Barack Obama. People will no longer feel out of place, whether they are black in a white neighborhood or white in a black neighborhood. The melting-pot will become established even more. I was in New York the night of the Presidential election and saw a real change when the results were announced – the way people looked at each other and spoke to each other was different…
